Clay Bars...
- Thread starter GGM
- Start date
I just did mine for the first time last weekend...all i could find was the Mothers Clay bar, which comes with its own lubricant (liquid detailer)...Heck, its pretty easy...as long as you dont drop the darn thing, you should be good (crap on the floor will stick to it!)...make sure enough lubricant is sprayed on the car....wash it a second time and move on to the next layer!
I'm sure the pros (vlad and coyotefreak) will weigh in with some real good advice!!!
I'm sure the pros (vlad and coyotefreak) will weigh in with some real good advice!!!
you wash your car with dish detergent...Dawn, dry it all up...then spray a 2x2 section of your car with the liquid lube, then rub the clay bar over your paint in straight lines (front to back), I went over it only once/ maybe a couple of times...then use your microfiber cloth to wipe up the area! move on to the next 2x2 spot and repeat...once the whole car is done...wash it again with water....dry and glaze, polsih, wax...then sit back with a brewski and admire your work!!![[cheers]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_cheers.gif "Cheers [cheers]")
Thanks, can't wait to try it out once this snows gone!. I did read up on a site that was posted awhile back- http://store.bimmercarcare.com/
great info
great info
no, dont clay your bumper if its plastic with the coating on it, but if its painted just like your car, then yes, clay it.
and you should only have to clay a section once, there shouldnt be any layers...if i am understanding you right.
also...be careful with the clay you choose. The Autowax company was first to develope clay bars, and have since put several patents on clay. Their clay is the only way to go if you can find a warehouse distributor that will sell it to you. Mothers, and those other brands i see you all using are half ass jobs because they cant develope it the right way without getting sued, serioulsy. Several companys have been sued for millions by the autowax company because they have made clay that was patented by autowax company. just some stuff to remember.
and you should only have to clay a section once, there shouldnt be any layers...if i am understanding you right.
also...be careful with the clay you choose. The Autowax company was first to develope clay bars, and have since put several patents on clay. Their clay is the only way to go if you can find a warehouse distributor that will sell it to you. Mothers, and those other brands i see you all using are half ass jobs because they cant develope it the right way without getting sued, serioulsy. Several companys have been sued for millions by the autowax company because they have made clay that was patented by autowax company. just some stuff to remember.
Since I've been using one of those halfassed products (Meguiars), and have been very pleased with it, I was curious about your statement that all the other products besides Autowax can't be made properly or they will get sued. I found that the Manufaturer of the product that Mothers sells did get sued, and did loose (not so much on the patent infringment but on product claims), but is naturally appealing. The primary patent for the "plastic flexible griding stone" was orinally filed around 1987 by a Japanees company. The appeal is being based on information available prior to the patent filing, but I don't understand it all. It appears the patent would be easy to avoid by simply changing the formula of the "powder detergent" or ration of silica.
Now I'm not saying the Autowax product is not the best (I wouldn't know, I haven't used it) but will say with confidence that simply holding a patent does not guarantee that the product is the best. If you get a chance, read the patent, it's pretty interesting.
Now I'm not saying the Autowax product is not the best (I wouldn't know, I haven't used it) but will say with confidence that simply holding a patent does not guarantee that the product is the best. If you get a chance, read the patent, it's pretty interesting.
i am not saying they dont work...also, i know the autowax company's products are harder to get a hold of....i am just stating that since i have used a few different clay bars, like now and i am definetly not as satisfied as i was with the autowax companys clay magic, that stuff rocks. and as far as the patent goes...i was just stating what i've read about autowqax companys patent, and their law suits....i assumed (bad idea i guess) that they had the original patent..sorry. i just know their clay kicks butt![[thumb]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumb.gif "Thumbs Up [thumb]")
Ah, I understand, my bad. As you have tried different products (and that, in my opinion, is the best way to learn) I will take your word that the Autowax product is superior, if I can find it, I'll try it. I just could not believe how good the Meguiars made my paint look and feel. If the Autowax is even better, all I can say is, WOW!
For anyone who has never tried a clay bar, I encourage you to try it. If you paint is more than a few years old, you will be amazed.
For anyone who has never tried a clay bar, I encourage you to try it. If you paint is more than a few years old, you will be amazed.
its not just for look and feel. the 'grains of sand' you feel on the paint are actually contaminents. after they build up over the years, they will literly eat the paint off. it weakens an gets underneath the paint, allowing it to crack, and chip WAY easier, as well as oxidize faster. you dont want that stuff on your paint period. if you've never tried it....cigarette cilipahne ( the rapper around the tobacco) works too i think, but just ciliphane(sp) magnifies touch. take a small sheet of it and put it around your fingertips like a towel, but not your hand, your finfertips, and then rub them across the paint, it'll feel like sandpaper if you've never clayed the paint! ciliphane magnifies your touch like 25X or something, pretty cool trick! Autowax company gives ciliphane with the clay bar so you can do a before and after thing...awesome.
heck...if you can find an autowax/auto magic distributer...ask them if they will sell to the public. i garuntee you that EVERYTHING they make is superior to what your used to. simple products to use, and easy to work with. the distributor in my area is also my godfather...and he just switched product lines to Car Brite, a company up in Indiana...i am not so sure i like them better though, but they're close. Although, The Autowax Company (also known as Auto Magic) has lost all morals. My godfather brings in millions in dollars of sales every year, and the president of the autowax company HANGS THE PHONE UP ON HIM , and whines and raises hell(literally) about a tiny labeling issue on their engine degreaser (Red Hot). wasnt a good idea...thats when he switched to car brite, and the pres was REAL quick to call him back and try to work things out, but it was his own fault and it was too late. now the autowax company is spreading rumors here in oregon about what haoppend, only he twisted the story...so my godfather is losing tons of business. so if you dont buy auto magic products, i dont blame you! keep that in mind and spread the word if you can, there are a whole lot more stories i could tell you about the scandelous and cowardly business of the Autowax Company, but i'd rather save my breath.
heck...if you can find an autowax/auto magic distributer...ask them if they will sell to the public. i garuntee you that EVERYTHING they make is superior to what your used to. simple products to use, and easy to work with. the distributor in my area is also my godfather...and he just switched product lines to Car Brite, a company up in Indiana...i am not so sure i like them better though, but they're close. Although, The Autowax Company (also known as Auto Magic) has lost all morals. My godfather brings in millions in dollars of sales every year, and the president of the autowax company HANGS THE PHONE UP ON HIM , and whines and raises hell(literally) about a tiny labeling issue on their engine degreaser (Red Hot). wasnt a good idea...thats when he switched to car brite, and the pres was REAL quick to call him back and try to work things out, but it was his own fault and it was too late. now the autowax company is spreading rumors here in oregon about what haoppend, only he twisted the story...so my godfather is losing tons of business. so if you dont buy auto magic products, i dont blame you! keep that in mind and spread the word if you can, there are a whole lot more stories i could tell you about the scandelous and cowardly business of the Autowax Company, but i'd rather save my breath.
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Hi Guys
Back to the original question...,
IMO, I have not tried a clay bar I did not like..., they have all worked. Like everything else, it is a personal preference.
The Japanese have been using clay for quite a few years and Auto Magic was the first to import it and patent it..., which does not make it better..., just the first one that said "I saw it first" , LOL!!
I use clay on everything from new to old cars, and anything with paint and "bumps".
You can put your hand in a plastic sandwich bag and lightly run it over your paint..., if you feel "bumps", you probably need to clay.
My "routine" is to do one section at a time, in the shade, on a cool car/finish.
I always cut or rip my bar into several pieces(I can get about 10 pieces from a bar), as I flatten them out and they will go much farther and "if" you drop one..., you have nine left
You can use a quick Detailer, or, another "trick" is to use a good car wash with good lubing properties such as Zaino Z-7 and add a small amount to a bottle of water with a sprayer. It works just as well and you can save your QD for..., well..., QDing
Clay one section at a time, making sure to use plenty of "lube" to keep the clay from sticking, I clay about a 2x2 or 3x3 foot section at a time, but for starters you may want to start smaller until you get the hang of it.
When you see debris starting to stick to the clay, it is a good idea to fold it, flatten it and start claying again.
One thing you do not want to do is use a dirty clay bar..., so keep an eye out on the clay for dirt or foreign matter.
After claying the section, wipe it off with a good quality microfiber towel, as it is very absorbant and will not harm the finish or leave lint, plus it will remove any clay residue.
Next, check your work. If it needs more attention, clay again, if not, move on to the next section.
Once you get the hang of it..., it is VERY easy and also enjoyable to know how slick you are making your car
If you have never clayed, you will be amazed!! Your paint will become as slick as glass.
I always recommend polishing after claying, then adding a layer of protection to keep your slick finish "locked in".
Hope this helps
Back to the original question...,
IMO, I have not tried a clay bar I did not like..., they have all worked. Like everything else, it is a personal preference.
The Japanese have been using clay for quite a few years and Auto Magic was the first to import it and patent it..., which does not make it better..., just the first one that said "I saw it first" , LOL!!
I use clay on everything from new to old cars, and anything with paint and "bumps".
You can put your hand in a plastic sandwich bag and lightly run it over your paint..., if you feel "bumps", you probably need to clay.
My "routine" is to do one section at a time, in the shade, on a cool car/finish.
I always cut or rip my bar into several pieces(I can get about 10 pieces from a bar), as I flatten them out and they will go much farther and "if" you drop one..., you have nine left
You can use a quick Detailer, or, another "trick" is to use a good car wash with good lubing properties such as Zaino Z-7 and add a small amount to a bottle of water with a sprayer. It works just as well and you can save your QD for..., well..., QDing
Clay one section at a time, making sure to use plenty of "lube" to keep the clay from sticking, I clay about a 2x2 or 3x3 foot section at a time, but for starters you may want to start smaller until you get the hang of it.
When you see debris starting to stick to the clay, it is a good idea to fold it, flatten it and start claying again.
One thing you do not want to do is use a dirty clay bar..., so keep an eye out on the clay for dirt or foreign matter.
After claying the section, wipe it off with a good quality microfiber towel, as it is very absorbant and will not harm the finish or leave lint, plus it will remove any clay residue.
Next, check your work. If it needs more attention, clay again, if not, move on to the next section.
Once you get the hang of it..., it is VERY easy and also enjoyable to know how slick you are making your car
If you have never clayed, you will be amazed!! Your paint will become as slick as glass.
I always recommend polishing after claying, then adding a layer of protection to keep your slick finish "locked in".
Hope this helps